A Complete Guide to Marquise Diamonds

The marquise diamond is having quite a moment right now, thanks to Selena Gomez’s jaw-dropping 8ct engagement ring. So, whether Selena and Benny Blanco have inspired you or if the unique marquise shape has caught your eye, we’ll explain everything you need to know before you decide to make that important purchase.

Marquise, A Fancy Diamond!

A marquise diamond is one of the fancy diamond shapes, which means it is a more unusual shape than the well-known round brilliant cut or the square-shaped princess cut. The Marquise cut diamond is classified by its long curved shape with pointed ends. A Marquise diamond is a popular choice because its shape makes the diamond appear larger than other shapes in the same carat weight due to its long and vast circumference, meaning it is not as deep as a round brilliant cut and more of its carat weight is in the circumference known as the diamonds face-up size, which is what you will notice the most when it is set in a ring setting and worn on the finger. This larger face-up size helps show the marquise cuts long shape and accentuates the finger length. Many say the marquise makes your fingers look long and slender in the same way many women say that high heels accentuate your legs making them look longer and slender. This is the same concept in a stunning Marquise cut diamond. 

What Is A Marquise Cut Diamond?

It’s said that the elongated shape of the marquise diamond was shaped after the lips of the lover of King Louis XIV of France, although it is also known to represent the bottom of a boat or the shape of an eye, these all give different tales and stories to the start of the Marquise cut showing it is a vintage cut and has been around for a long time and continues to prove why it is so popular. 

A Marquise Diamond consists of 5 main components, including:

• Belly: the belly is in the centre of the diamond and is the widest part of the diamond, where the sides curve. This is where the width of the marquise diamond is measured and noted in your certification.
• Point: the two tips of the diamond at the north/top side and the south/bottom of the diamond. This is where the length of the marquise diamond is measured from point to point and noted in your certification.
• Wings: the area between the belly and the point.
• Girdle: the perimeter of the diamond known as the outermost edge
• Keel line: a line running down the centre of the bottom of the diamond, where the pavilion facets meet.

A marquise diamond is a traditional shaped diamond, and its history is steeped in deep love and romance, making it the perfect choice for couples looking to make a statement with a unique diamond.

What Is The Ratio Of A Marquise Diamond?

The ratio of a marquise diamond is calculated by dividing the length of the diamond by the width. The larger the ratio, the longer and narrower the diamond will be, the lower the ratio the shorter and stubbier the marquise diamond will be. You will always want to keep within a certain ratio to ensure you have a desirably shaped marquise cut diamond.

The perfect ratio for a marquise diamond ranges between 1.85 - 2.00, the highest of this range will mean the diamond is twice as long as it is wide creating a stunning marquise cut. However, this range can be quite rare in this rare shape and most of the popular ratios sold on the market today range between 1.75 and 2.15 as these are stunning shapes and more available worldwide. It’s important to remember that the ratio of the diamond is an entirely aesthetic choice, so if you’d rather choose a more unusual ratio, prioritise your preference over a “perfect” shape but ensure you view the diamond before purchase and assess that there is no loss of light due to the diamonds ratio and it remains bright and sparkly.

What Makes An Excellent Cut Marquise Diamond?

As a Marquise diamond is classed as a fancy diamond, it doesn’t conform to the same regulations as a round stone in terms of the cut and ideal dimensions. Meaning there are more options to choose from and a wider variety when it comes to the overall appearance of the marquise cut diamond. Nol diamonds are created equal, so what qualities should you look for when purchasing a marquise cut diamond? 

Excellent Symmetry

 

The Symmetry grade is key when choosing a marquise diamond. If you choose an unsymmetrical diamond, the two points of your diamond could be very obviously misaligned. However, a diamond with excellent symmetry will ensure the belly of the diamond is equal on both sides, meaning one side is not more curved than the other, this also allows for more light to refract through the diamond and this causes more sparkle when you peer into the diamond.

Avoid The Bow-Tie Effect 

 

The bow-tie effect is a dark shadow in the centre of your diamond in the shape of its title which can be quite distracting and can ruin the overall look and sparkle in your diamond and it only occurs in certain shapes. The bow-tie is more common in a marquise cut diamond than in other cuts of stone, it is usually present in elongated shapes, due to the length of the facets in the diamond. 

While it may sound fancy, a bow-tie effect is something you’ll want to avoid as much as possible. All marquise diamonds will have a bow tie to some degree, which is why we recommend booking a viewing before you make a purchase and get advice from your jeweller on which option is best for you, within your price range in this stunning marquise cut shape, as each one is beautiful in its unique way.

Maximum Sparkle

Pay special attention to the depth of the diamond and the table (centre of the top of the diamond) to allow for maximum sparkle. A diamond that is cut too deep will start to lose its sparkle as the light cannot refract back to the surface of the diamond as it is too deep, or if the diamond is cut too shallow the diamond can get a dark shadow appear around the centre/table of the diamond which reduces the sparkle. Also keep an eye on the percentage of the table to check it is not too big as this can cause less sparkle in your diamond too.

The best cut for a marquise diamond is between 53%-63% for the table and 58-62% depth, and anything over 53% depth and table is still considered a good depth, however, keeping within these ideal percentages is the best way to ensure the cut on your diamond is excellent.

Free From Flaws and Inclusions

 

If you’re on a budget, the marquise diamond can be a good choice, as flaws and inclusions can be well hidden when their placement is around the edge of the diamond and away from the table/center of your diamond. If you’re looking for a ring with a clear and nearly-flawless finish, it’s important to make sure that there are no visible inclusions detracting from this. If you are new to learning about the Clarity grades of a diamond, it is important to see the difference between each category. While inclusions and flaws aren’t desirable for everyone, they do make the diamond more unique, like a snowflake or fingerprint, as these occur naturally within the stone when it first forms and is the birthmark of that diamond, which makes it one of a kind. 

 

The clarity categories you will learn about at a jeweller's are:

 

• I3-I1 Clarity: This category is not well known it stands for Included and it has three known stages I3, I2 and I1, many of these are not on sale today as they show inclusions very obviously from all angles of the diamond, you will find I1 category in majority of retailers but will noticed the reduced sparkle and dull appearance which can occur within this category as the inclusion will block the light in the stone, however they're many I1 diamond which are beautiful and we highly advise viewing the stone when considering buying within this category which is the most affordable. 
• S2-S1 Clarity: This stands for slight inclusions, meaning that inclusions are present within the diamond and they will be visible across the diamond from certain angles or from the top view of the stone to the naked eye. This is not always a bad choice of clarity as each diamond is different and the placement of the inclusions is something to take note of when choosing from this category. This is a more affordable option to choose, especially if you have a larger carat weight in mind for your diamond. 
• VS2-VS1 Clarity: This stands for very slight inclusions which will be much harder to see with the naked eye, this is where you will need to start using a x10 magnifier to see the inclusions, making this a popular choice for couples who want a diamond that still sparkles brightly but doesn’t break the bank as these are still quite affordable depending on the carat weight you have in mind. 
• VVS2, VVS1 Clarity: this stands for Very Very Slight inclusions. These diamonds contain minimal inclusions which you will be able to see on a x10 magnifier they will be present in the diamond but are very difficult to see and take note of, which is where the diamond certificate will come in handy to map out the diamonds inclusions depending on which certificate you have chosen, this will hold the diamonds value very well despite coming with a premium price tag when you see diamonds in this higher category you can’t help but fall in love with them. 
• IF - FL Clarity: If you’re looking for perfection, then the obvious choice is this, the Internally Flawless - Flawless clarity grade, this means there is the smallest mention of an inclusion or surface mark but it is incredibly difficult to see, offering maximum brightness and sparkle in the diamond, it is a show stopper and perfect for the ring where you want only the best for your loved one. 

Are Marquise Diamonds Expensive? 

Despite their popularity, marquise diamonds are one of the more affordable diamond shapes available. When diamond cutters first cut the marquise shape from the rough diamond, there’s less of the diamond wasted compared to when they cut a round brilliant diamond. Meaning this brings the price down. Other influences in price will depend on the carat, cut, colour and clarity of the stone and these prices can really differ in larger carat weights of the marquise cut and can become very expensive due to their rarity in the big carat weights of 2 carats and above. Therefore, it is always important to consider the carat weight you want to aim for when choosing the perfect marquise cut diamond for you. 

Which Setting Is Best For A Marquise Diamond? 

Here at Diamond Heaven, every ring is unique, and we believe no ring setting is superior to the others - it’s all down to personal preference and what you value as the most important design for your partner when choosing a ring. Each setting has different qualities and benefits, the most popular at the moment are solitaires letting the diamond shine bright on a plain band and diamond shoulder sets which add that little extra detail and sparkle on each shoulder of the diamond band.

Best Ring Settings For Security:

Bezel or Prong setting

Due to its elongated shape, a marquise diamond can be vulnerable to chipping at its thinner edges and its delicate points (the ends). If you’re looking for a durable ring that will last a lifetime, we recommend choosing either a prong setting or a bezel setting.

Bezel setting: A bezel setting encases the diamond with a protective ring of metal holding it in place, making it the most secure setting option for an engagement ring. Not only protecting the diamond's two delicate points on a marquise cut to avoid damage, but also preventing the stone from coming loose which can happen over time on prong settings which require on-going maintenance to keep the diamond intact in the ring.      

Prong setting: The larger the carat your diamond is, the more important it is to assess the prong setting you are choosing to keep your diamond safe and secure in the setting. larger carat weights require a minimum of four prongs on a marquise cut diamond and some prefer size prongs, depending on your loved one's day routine to ensure you are protecting the diamond from any hands-on activities which can cause damage to the ring or allow the diamond to become loose. You may notice some ring designs have a V-shaped prong or arrow head prong to hold the points of the marquise diamond in place and to secure the diamond better at the most vulnerable points.

As a bezel or prong setting offers the most security, we recommend these settings for brides who want to wear their engagement ring every day but have active lifestyles.

Most Sparkly & Detailed Settings: 

Halo settings or Trilogy rings

It’s no surprise that the more diamonds you choose to feature on your ring, the more sparkle. This is why trilogy or halo ring styles are an excellent choice for creating big carat weight appearances and all the glitz and glamour. 

Halo setting: A halo setting consists of a central stone with a circle of smaller stones which surround it, representing an angel's halo. It’s called a halo due to its resemblance to the ring of light that surrounds the center piece. This adds to the face-up size of the center diamond making it appear larger, whilst adding extra boldness and sparkle. 

Trilogy setting: Why choose one stone when you can have three? A trilogy setting with a marquise diamond in the center as the ultimate showstopper is a beautiful design to create this elongated shape complimented with the extra width of side diamonds adding to the face-up size and creating that beautiful extra detail which many customers want to make their ring stand out differently to all the solitaire engagement ring styles.

If you’re looking for a show stopping engagement ring in a larger carat weight for your bride-to-be, a halo or trilogy ring might just be the perfect option for you.  

Most contemporary setting

East to West setting or Toi et Moi 

Looking for a unique ring that’s a little bit different? East-to-West and Toi et Moi engagement rings are two contemporary ring settings that are unique, stylish and very in demand at the moment.

East-to-West setting: The east-to-west setting is a unique choice for a marquise diamond cut engagement ring as the diamond is laid lengthways across the finger, from east to west instead of north to south. It gives the illusion of a larger diamond due to it taking up more width across the finger. Celebrities with an east-west marquise diamond engagement ring include Catherine Zeta-Jones.

Toi et Moi setting: A Toi et Moi setting is a contemporary engagement ring setting, the title in French translates to “you and me”, it consists of two diamonds set in one ring side by side, usually leaning against each other or tilting towards each other. This represents two individuals in love coming together, forever. A marquise diamond is a great choice for this ring design, as it's a unique shape, which can represent your unique feelings and love for each other, it's the perfect choice to complement and contrast with other diamond shapes and put your own unique spin on such a sentimental ring choice.

East-to-west and Toi et Moi settings both offer contemporary couples a choice of engagement ring that celebrates individuality and love with a dainty, minimalistic style which is very popular on the market today.

How can Diamond Heaven Help?

Our expert team at Diamond Heaven can help you choose the perfect marquise diamond ring for the love of your life. Book an appointment at one of our local stores across England, Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland, or start browsing our range of marquise engagement rings today.